...milling crowds. I As I headed towards a flight of concrete steps, a gaggle of schoolgirls passed before me, gifgling h g over the correct spelling if the o o word "spelt", the ancient grain. A bunch of guys, lounging on a blanket and tippling wine, also overheard, and one man raised his glass, and wjth i a view to being amusing spelled, "S-E-P-P-E-L-T!", the name of